Mash and Boil for 250.00

[berryman]

I saw that, too. I do a poor job of pre-brew water volumes so I generally sparge until I hit the volume I want

Maybe I'm weird, but if my mash/sparge and boil doesn't work out to the volume I'm going for, I'm totally OK with topping up during the boil if I am targeting a volume to fermenter and I boil down below where it will happen. I see no harm in it, but I'm not worried about being "exact" every time like some folks.

The only 'issue' doing it that way is that you're topping off with water which dillutes the wort. By doing it pre-boil I can ensure that I'm getting more wort in (vs just water). As you said, if you're not concerned about hitting numbers then this is a non-issue. I do try to hit my numbers and be consistent brew-over-brew so I can replicate things. I just need to stop being lazy and go back to calculating how much sparge water I need ahead of time.

If/when I have an issue with by basket I'll likely buy the new one but I won't buy one now. My current one works just fine - with the viewing exception I mentioned.

Well you can look at it both ways, if you boil extra water off, you get down to basically the same pre-boil gravity, if you over sparge and boil down, probably getting more sugars, not sure how much difference, but think not much.

[mashani]

The only 'issue' doing it that way is that you're topping off with water which dillutes the wort. By doing it pre-boil I can ensure that I'm getting more wort in (vs just water).

Except that my wort before top up is usually actually more concentrated then I want (higher OG) since I was actually targeting the OG at the volume I am topping up to when I built my recipe. If I didn't top up then I'd actually end up with a beer stronger then I was going for. I don't think that missing 1/4th of a gallon or whatever at the end of the sparge is getting all that much more out of the grains by that point. Most of what they had to give is already in the wort. Yes, it's not exact and I'm missing a little bit that I could have gotten out, but it's not as big of a deal as folks make it out to be IMHO at least if your not trying to be exact every time.

Sometimes I brew 8-9 gallon batches "macro brew style" IE an intentionally concentrated wort that is then diluted to the 9 gallons. A macro brewer would do this to save hot side equipment capacity and/or use less energy to make more beer. I just do it to make more beer at a time when my hot side equipment isn't big enough to do it. This obviously works best to make lower ABV beers (IE 1.05 or < effective beers) with what I use. But I do it for things like patersbiers, and such where I want a lot of it. Basically they just start off as a triple, but end up as patersbier.

[Kealia]

I see what you guys are saying. You're talking about post-boil and I was thinking pre-boil.

In any case, it sounds like we've all found ways to make this equipment work for us. I still do love the simplicity of it. Although if it ever breaks, I have to say that I'm loving my equipment from Spike and have looked at their Solo systems.

There's just a BIT more than buying another M&B would be

[Kealia]

Looks like there is a new 'extension' for the Brewzilla/Digiboil that people are asking if it will fit the M&B, too:
Linky

[Beer-lord]

This guy does lots of Brewzilla videos and I think this one here is what you're talking about?????
https://youtu.be/W2hPRjGZ_gc?t=48

[Kealia]

That looks like the same one, yeah.

[bpgreen]

https://www.morebeer.com/products/boile ... _rEWn3XdVk

[bpgreen]

I think the digiboil may use many of the same parts as the mash and boil. So it may well fit.

I may call morebeer to ask.

I wonder how much of a struggle it would be to reach boiling at lower elevations

[berryman]

Well since I was the first on here and a few others after got the M&B, I guess first to have problems. Mine is the first series and got it shortly after came out. I think most everyone else here has the gen 2, and they made some upgrades. A couple years ago I had a main wire connection burn off and machine went dark, found the problem and fixed it . Today new story, I didn’t have the timer set but had the strike water in, turned it on when got up, had my coffee and breakfast about 45-60 mins.
As usual and was up to temp. Mashed in. All good so far, I set at 1000w got mash set for 152 I came back down and 146 and said was heating but still dropping, I set it for 1600 and finally came back to 152. Here’s what I learned how this thing works. The low setting is the 1000w which is the higher output element and the hi side is 600. Did the mash and pumped into my Mega pot and did the boil like I use to. All is good put that beer. Found a burned off connection on th 1000w on the controller. I need a new controller and willams has it for $40. So going to get one to keep this going for now. But looking at something new soon when money comes available ,

[berryman]

https://www.morebeer.com/products/35l-b ... 0240v.html

[Kealia]

Here's another (expensive) option: https://spikebrewing.com/products/new-s ... 6267270380

[berryman]

Here's another (expensive) option: https://spikebrewing.com/products/new-s ... 6267270380

I sure know about that one and my favorite of all the ones I’ve seen, maybe if I was ten years younger ha ha. For now just going to put the $40 board on the M&B and continue on as have been, but I have been looking at up grading when the time comes, but that unit there is a huge$ upgrade. If my m&b problem would have been the 1000w non-replaceable element, then I would had to upgrade sooner if want to stay brewing the way I do and the only way I want to now.

[bpgreen]

Here's another (expensive) option: https://spikebrewing.com/products/new-s ... 6267270380

I wonder how long it takes to bring 10 gallons to a boil with 120 volts.

I think if I stepped up to 10 gallons, I'd go with 220.

[bpgreen]

Here's another (expensive) option: https://spikebrewing.com/products/new-s ... 6267270380

I wonder how long it takes to bring 10 gallons to a boil with 120 volts.

I think if I stepped up to 10 gallons, I'd go with 220.

Or 221.


Whatever it takes.

[Kealia]

Here's another (expensive) option: https://spikebrewing.com/products/new-s ... 6267270380

I sure know about that one and my favorite of all the ones I’ve seen, maybe if I was ten years younger ha ha. For now just going to put the $40 board on the M&B and continue on as have been, but I have been looking at up grading when the time comes, but that unit there is a huge$ upgrade. If my m&b problem would have been the 1000w non-replaceable element, then I would had to upgrade sooner if want to stay brewing the way I do and the only way I want to now.

Yeah, it's a 'wish list' item, for sure. If/when my M&B stops working, I'll likely look into another one (M&B, Brewzilla/Grainfather, etc.).

IF I ever stepped up my game to something like the Spike system, I'd definitely go 220.