Evaluating my New Equipment

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue Apr 11, 2017 4:19 pm

I know some of you have expressed interest on some of my new brewing equipment, so as I try it out I will update this thread.
Today I heated some water in the Grainfather Sparge water heater https://www.williamsbrewing.com/GRAINFA ... P4082.aspx.
All the measurements are metric, so I put in 12 L. of water, just a little over 3 gal. set the thermostat for 75 C. It took around 45 mins. then it switched from the heating light to the warm light I drew some out and it was 164 degs. I will have to make another trial with it to get to the number I want (168) and will put a mark on it.

RickBeer · Post by **RickBeer** » Tue Apr 11, 2017 4:43 pm

Since 75 is 167, and you got 164, I suspect it's due to the tolerance cycling on and off. It hits the set temp (167), then turns to warm. Drops to X, then turns to hot again. No? Plus, when you draw it out and then take the temp it's going to drop. That's my guess anyway. To be 168 you need 75.56.

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue Apr 11, 2017 5:02 pm

A couple things, I'm not sure how accurate my old therm is any more, the thermostat on the unit is in 5 C increments and I may not have had it right on the 75, When I test out the Mash and Boil I will check it again, that has a digital on it. if I have time I will do another test run tomorrow. I will put my thermometer right in the unit next time also.

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Wed Apr 12, 2017 2:38 pm

Today I ran the Sparge water heater again and I have it dialed in now, I think that will be a good addition to my new system of brewing. My tap/well water is very cold so I think by drawing it the day before brewing and getting to room temp will speed up the heating process on both machines.
Now the fun part Brewers Edge Mash & Boil https://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWERS ... px?afid=14
I was a little worried about programing the controls, I found it was very easy, and this is coming from a old guy that sometimes has problems with the microwave. When you turn it on The default setting water temp of 162 deg will flash hit the set button a couple times and it's heating, after that you have to do it again to bring it to a mash temp you want just as easy with a up - down arrow key, and then do the same thing with the boil. Now the boil, it's not quite as aggressive as I was doing on my gas burner, I always figured about 1 gal. boil off in 60min, the directions say use 5.5 for a 5 gal brew so I will go with that to try when the time comes. I'm still a little ways away from trying my first brew on this setup but I want to get everything right and get use to it before I do the real deal. And when I do I will post more of it.

Post by **Beer-lord** » Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:12 pm

Sounds like someone is having fun again!

mashani · Post by **mashani** » Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:24 pm

I've read the boil is mellow, but that's really not a real issue IMHO more then just figuring out the boil off rate.

The Zymatic devices for example don't really boil at all and they work fine from what I hear (when they are actually working at least).

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Wed Apr 12, 2017 4:06 pm

mashani wrote:I've read the boil is mellow, but that's really not a real issue IMHO more then just figuring out the boil off rate.

The Zymatic devices for example don't really boil at all and they work fine from what I hear (when they are actually working at least).

I didn't really think it was a bad boil, had steam, just maybe not as much as I was doing and maybe I've been boiling harder then needed. I will take a pic. when I do a brew in it. Water boils here between 209 and 210.
Mash.... I really think you would like one of these units

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue May 09, 2017 5:14 pm

I brewed with the Mash & Boil today or somewhat. 20 mins. To heat 3 gal room temp water to 162 deg. I think not bad. The Grainfather sparge water heater took 35 mins to heat 4 gal to 168 deg. That works. The mash, not real consistent has a 5 or 6 deg variable and set at 152 would drop down to 146 before it would come back up to 152. A little ways in I bumped it up to 155 and I think that might be better. All was going well.In the beginning of the sparge I bumped it up to 218 as per the directions and the temp started coming up, then almost done a error code came up, error 4, I got the manual out and it said need to reset. Well the reset is underneath the unit and how do you get to it full of wort and grain? You can't. I ended up pumping into my Megapot and did the boil in it. I have some things to learn about this unit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue May 09, 2017 5:35 pm

I did a real simple recipe, 7 LB. 2 row, 2 LB. Flaked Corn and .5 Carapils. Came in at 1.048 - 5.5 gal. I reset the mash and boil and put water in it and brought it to a boil and worked fine, I don't know what caused this error to happen. I want to build a cart on casters for the Mash and Boil and I WILL Have a opening to be able to get to the reset.

RickBeer · Post by **RickBeer** » Tue May 09, 2017 6:14 pm

I would be concerned at the mash temperature going from 152 to 146 and back up again. Maybe call the company?

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue May 09, 2017 6:21 pm

Now on to my Ss Brewtech bucket, first time and I can see I will really like this.
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ ... ter-bucket

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Tue May 09, 2017 6:47 pm

RickBeer wrote:I would be concerned at the mash temperature going from 152 to 146 and back up again. Maybe call the company?

If you go to their website Q&A they will say that is the way the unit works, I already knew about the 6 deg differential before I bought it. It doesn't go higher then what set just drop down until heat comes back on. I think as Mashani said a insulation wrap would keep it closer, and I think by setting it at 155 will keep the average better, but IDK first time I used it, but I made beer.

mashani · Post by **mashani** » Tue May 09, 2017 7:43 pm

The fluctuation in temps isn't the end of the world, probably the first 10-15 minutes of the mash are the most important, and it's more important to start in the right range if you are going for a more full bodied end result then to finish in it which is what will happen here if you start warm.

The temperature lowering is not destroying any enzymes that are working in your mash, nor is it stopping them from working at all - mash temperature ranges quoted where enzymes become active are in reality "works best at" (as in works fastest at), not "doesn't work at all at" types of things. A really high mash temp will denature some enzymes that might produce more fermentable sugars, but not necessarily all.

And if you start at very low temps doing it the opposite way, IE your doing a protein rest, and then raise temps, the reality of it is some beta and alpha amylase is actually working too at those low temps even though they are way below the "quoted" temps, beta would be more active of the two, both are working slowly but they are working, nothing is denatured. People have been doing that for hundreds of years on purpose. Even Alpha Amylase works at human body temps (it's in your saliva and it helps you digest starch). It just doesn't work as fast, so it's letting the Beta do more stuff in beer when your temps are low (you don't have Beta in your saliva, but you might have some in your gut).

Ultimately, the only thing you might find is to make a beer with the same consistency as some more stable mash temp if you are going for a full bodied mash might require a degree or two higher starting point.

And really that's about it. People stress about that stuff too much. No matter what you will make beer.

The sensor thing, according to the faqs and reviews, if anything gets on the bottom and blocks the sensor reading, that trips up the thing... so like adding extract with the heat on before fully integrating it into the wort could be bad. It is possible a big chunk of hops might be bad, I would not think pellets would be an issue, but maybe a full leaf hop.

Maybe you should drill a hole in the shelf you put it on so you can position the thing so the reset switch is reachable?

I know if I got one I'd jury rig something because I'm sure I'd trip the thing.

berryman · Post by **berryman** » Sat May 13, 2017 2:08 pm

A couple notes on this. I've bought 3 Midwest all grain kits to start out with on this new equipment, and why I did it was because I have already brewed these before a couple times as all extract and have the notes and numbers. My OG came in higher then the directions said and I did 5.5 gal and higher then when I did the same beer extract. The other thing I noticed is this beer is way lighter in color then I've ever got on a all extract brew. Yes I've done a lot of partial BIAB, but always used extract for the final. My first all grain and I think it's looking good. I had a few minor issues but all worked out. Next beer to brew is a Fat Tire clone which I have brewed in extract a few times before and I liked it.

John Sand · Post by **John Sand** » Sat May 13, 2017 6:53 pm

Thanks for the report. Using LME I generally find it darker than AG, also does not attenuate as well. I have scorched it at times I think, but other have the same result.