BeerBorg

I want to do a comparison of the 4 varieties of hops that I have grown. I want to keep it simple and fast using 3 lbs of DME 2.5 gal batches, (yes going to break out the LBK's for this). No grain steep and using 11.5 us-05 per batch at the mid to low 60's. I want to keep the IBU's in the low 20's and am shooting for more flavor then bitterness on this experiment. I also want to keep the color as light as possible because I will have taste testers and sometimes when they see a darker beer they think of it as a stronger beer then it is.
OK and now my question, what would you all recommend for the base DME? And any other suggestions on doing this experiment to evaluate the different hop varieties?

I would just use light DME. I have made an extract SMaSH to test hops. It gave me a good sense of the hop flavor. I used leftover LME, which was several types, but the hop additions were 25 and 5 minutes.

If you want it as light as possible, then some Briess Pilsner DME would be my choice, and it will really let the hops shine through. Another option is Muntons Extra Light DME which will be a bit more malty, and at 7 EBC is still very light colored (that is about 3-4 SRM equivalent). You could also throw in (replace some of the other dme) with a bit of wheat DME if you want to increase head retention and not make it any darker. Or just plain old maltodextrin will work wonders there and add 0 color.

what kind of hops are they? that is a little important in your selection I think. if they are all going to be in pale ales/IPAs, definitely use the light DME so you have a little touch of crystal malt character that you more than likely will have in a future brew session.

also, since you don't know your AA levels (check that, I am assuming that you didn't test these!), I would do your 60 minute bittering addition using something known and clean like CTZ that you would buy (or have on hand, whatever) and give each batch a 10-12 IBU charge from that. this way you can send all your homegrown hops to flavor town in a late addition. personally, I'd say add at 15-20 minutes and then another for a whirlpool/steep for another 15 minutes or so. as far as amounts go, in your 2.5 gallon size...maybe 1/2 to 3/4 ? seems reasonable to me! and these will probably yield another 10+ IBU too, so you will be right in the wheelhouse you were wanting

natural320 wrote:what kind of hops are they? that is a little important in your selection I think. if they are all going to be in pale ales/IPAs, definitely use the light DME so you have a little touch of crystal malt character that you more than likely will have in a future brew session.

Chinook, Cascade, Nugget, decided not to do a SMaSH with my Mt. hood. I went to my LHBS today and got Briess golden light, that should work good for my experiment.

natural320 wrote: also, since you don't know your AA levels (check that, I am assuming that you didn't test these!), I would do your 60 minute bittering addition using something known and clean like CTZ that you would buy (or have on hand, whatever) and give each batch a 10-12 IBU charge from that.

That is a good idea and I don't know why I didn't think of it, That's why I ask the BORG and get answers. I don't have any Columbus, but have some brewers gold in the freezer that will work and that is a good idea to do.

mashani wrote: Another option is Muntons Extra Light DME which will be a bit more malty, and at 7 EBC is still very light colored (that is about 3-4 SRM equivalent). You could also throw in (replace some of the other dme) with a bit of wheat DME if you want to increase head retention and not make it any darker.

Dave I went with Briess Golden light, got it today at my LHBS. I forgot about maybe having a head retention issue with just DME as I have not brewed something like this in a while and happy you pointed that out. Change of plans I'm going to do a carapils steep, 3 gal. water, 1 lb grain, 30 min. and a gal in each of the brews. I decided to go with only the 3 because I forgot that's all the LBK's I have, had four at one time but one got dropped and was in a lot of pieces...

I don't know how big your harvest was, but I usually make at least one batch with all gone grown hops, just to do it. I never get my hops tested and just use the default values in beer smith.

One thing to keep in mind is that your hops can vary from year to year, so your results this year may differ from next year.

An update on my Hop Test SMaSH. To start with I ended up doing a 3 gal steep with 1 LB Carapils and used 1 gal for the start of each of the 3 - 2.5 gal batches. 3 lbs. Briess Golden light DME in each for a OG of 1.051 and a FG 1.012 - 11.5 us-05 in each. fermented at the bottom of the 60's. The IBU was around 30. All 3 taste good and very drinkable, but plain and I keep thinking it could use this or that but then I remember this is a hop test and the hops do shine though. HT1 (as I named them hop test) was Cascades I like C hops but there is a lot of cascade in there, I burped cascade for a while after trying this one. HT2 is Chinook, I usually like any beer that has Chinook in it. I was surprised that I didn't get as much pine as I thought with straight Chinook, but it was there. Seems to be a little more bitter then the other 2 even though I tried to keep the IBUs close using Q-brew. HT3 Nugget. Yes is mostly a bittering hop and had no idea on the flavor or aroma of this one, but I think I like this one the best as far as just drinking. My conclusion: it was a fun test but verified what I already knew about the flavors except for nugget and that my home grown hops have what I am looking for, but normally I would just use the whole hops for late additions and dry hopping.

berryman wrote: I burped cascade for a while after trying this one. HT2 is Chinook, I usually like any beer that has Chinook in it. I was surprised that I didn't get as much pine as I thought with straight Chinook, but it was there.

If you burped hops, your beer loves you!
I like Chinook but also never seem to get as much pine as many get nor as much as I really want.