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3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 9:35 am
by Ibasterd
Hey all

Planning a Scottish ale. The recipe I'm working off uses a 3 part mash, which I have not done before. Any thoughts on the benefits of this method vs a 1 hour mash at 152ยบ? Also, how do you account for the time that it takes to reach a higher temp from a lower? I'm using an electric stovetop with a 5 gallon vessel, BIAB. It takes a fair bit of time to raise temps.


MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 122 F, Time: 30 min, Amount: 7.2 qt, Protein Rest
2) Temperature, Temp: 153 F, Time: 45 min, Saccharification
3) Temperature, Temp: 169 F, Time: 10 min, Mash Out

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 10:51 am
by John Sand
Mash temp requirements are not as precise as we practice them: conversion happens above and below specified temps. My last batch was just mashed until it converted, judging by clarity. I've read of a practice of linear mashing, just heat through all of your temps until mash out. I haven't tried it, but it seems appropriate for a step mash. If you dough in with a target of 122, then heat slowly, I think you will achieve your desired results.
But I haven't step mashed, so, just some things to think about.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:10 am
by Ibasterd
Thanks John. Here is an article I found: https://byo.com/stories/item/1133-maste ... m-the-pros

It seems that the time in-between rest temps isn't very important. But it IS important to keep the mash at the required temps for the allotted amount of time. So, the time it takes to reach the new, higher temp is just added to the rest times at the specific temps (making for an overall longer mash process). I may give this a go next brew day.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:37 pm
by Bluejaye
Interesting topic and article.

Since this is in the BIAB section, I'm wondering what would happen if one were to lift the grain bag out of the liquid while apply heat, then putting it back in. I only wonder this because I worry about the nylon (or whatever) bag melting with a lot of heat applied to the pot. That article is from 1998, so I'm thinking BIAB wasn't really well known technique back when it was written.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:42 pm
by Beer-lord
I suggest finding something to place on the bottom so you not only protect the bag from burning but the grains as well. If you have a small pot, you might be able to use something like a stainless collander on the bottom. For my smaller pot, I found a porcelain gas stove burner pan.
I also stir mine every 10-15 minutes which also helps with my efficiency.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:13 pm
by mashani
FWIW I've done a semi-controlled "linear" type of mash in my oven before with Munich for use in a partial mash recipe in my small pot (12Q partial mash which I added to my 16Q pot for the boil - my 16Q pot doesn't fit in oven). I basically did a strike with ~140 degree water (whatever strike calculator told me), set the pot in my oven at my lowest setting and the timer at 10 minutes. After the timer dinged shut off oven let it stand 15 minutes, then re-set the timer for 10 minutes and fired the oven back up at lowest setting... ding... turn off oven let stand again for 15 minutes... repeat a 3rd time, and then fired up the oven for 10 minutes again at the end. Not very sophisticated. But this did work, I made good beer.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:42 pm
by Ibasterd
Bluejaye wrote:Interesting topic and article.

Since this is in the BIAB section, I'm wondering what would happen if one were to lift the grain bag out of the liquid while apply heat, then putting it back in. I only wonder this because I worry about the nylon (or whatever) bag melting with a lot of heat applied to the pot. That article is from 1998, so I'm thinking BIAB wasn't really well known technique back when it was written.
Good point. I'm lucky enough to have a false bottom in my brew pot, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:16 pm
by mashani
If you try it, consider that you might drop a degree or two if you pull the bag, get to a temp, and drop the bag back in. The entire surface area of the bag will cool some before you plop it back in. So you may want to heat up a degree or two above your intended temp. (I can't say exactly how much, and I don't think a strike temp calculator will help here as the entire bag of grain won't be at the same temp).

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:57 pm
by Ibasterd
Well, I did the step mash this last weekend. I didn't pull the bag, I just ramped up the heat after each rest. Seemed to get good conversion, so we'll see. Unless the finished product us noticeably better, I will probably just do a one temp mash in the future.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:38 pm
by John Sand
I still think it's a great experiment. That's half the fun. Keep us posted. My short mash last batch did not attenuate as expected.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:45 pm
by Bluejaye
Ibasterd wrote:Well, I did the step mash this last weekend. I didn't pull the bag, I just ramped up the heat after each rest. Seemed to get good conversion, so we'll see. Unless the finished product us noticeably better, I will probably just do a one temp mash in the future.
Definitely interested in hearing your opinion when you get to try it in a couple months.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 10:43 pm
by Ibasterd
Well it's too early to tell but one thing that is different so far, is that this is the longest active fermentation I've had. It has been seven days since pitching and it's still going strong. Thick krausen and a swirling yeast storm. Usually active fermentation has settled down by now. Maybe the step mash produced more fermentable goodies for the yeast. Or msybe it's the yeast itself. Scottish ale yeast, which I've not used before.

Re: 3 Part mash guidelines

Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:05 am
by philm00x
That is definitely likely. You'll get a lot more conversion of smaller sugars that are more readily eaten by the yeast, and I reckon the pH becomes a little more suitable for fermentation conditions so it's a prime environment.